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Part 2: Building It

So you have diligently selected and purchased all the hardware you need to build your system. Before we get started we are going to need a few basic tools to install everything correctly.

At a bare minimum you are going to need a screwdriver. Although it is never wise to follow just the bare minimum. If you do not have the extra funds to go out and purchase a computer repair kit, you should at least purchase an anti-static wrist strap.

NOTE: This article is merely generalities. If any instruction manual contradicts what I am typing, you should follow the manual. I hope that my advice is as accurate as possible, but I can't account for all situations.

Preparing The Area

In order to safely put together a computer you should have a clean working environment. I suggest a clean kitchen table or counter. You should also not work under a rug, due to static electricity. Hardwood or tile floors are preferable since you have a better chance to not build up a static charge.

You also want to make sure your hands are free of any dust, dirt or grime. If your a mechanic, you might want to scrub a little bit extra.

Anti-Static Wrist Strap?

Computer hardware is not like building a car, the components in a computer are sensitive to a lot of different external conditions. One major condition being static electricity. Wearing the anti-static wrist strap will prevent static electricity from damaging any of the pieces of your system. If you decide not to wear one, do so at your own risk. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!

Wearing one is easy, just place the strap over your wrist (genius huh?) and connect the wire to something metal to ground it. Your computer case can work, just make sure you clip it to a metal piece and not a plastic molding.

Motherboard First

I like to start with the motherboard. You can install the motherboard into the case, but then you are left with a cramped space to install the CPU and any memory sticks you should have.

Remove the motherboard from the box and anti-static sleeve. Place the motherboard on the sleeve.

Installing The Memory

Unwrap the memory stick(s) from their packaging. Now grab the sticks from the sides. Try to use as little of your fingers to hold the sticks to prevent dirt from getting on them. Memory sticks usually have a notch on the bottom of them to "force" you to place the memory into the motherboard the correct way. Now you want to look at the motherboard for the connector. Match the notches together and gently place the stick into the slot. Lightly press on the stick to lock it into place. DO NOT USE EXCESSIVE FORCE! If you feel that it isn't going in smoothly, remove it and make sure you have the correct type of memory and that the notches are correctly aligned. Some memory connectors may require you to "tilt" the stick into place. If this is the case, lightly tilt the memory stick from side to side till it locks in place.

Installing The CPU

The CPU is the second hardest piece of hardware you have to install. Locate the slot for the CPU. If you need to consult the motherboards manual, now would be a good time to do it. Once located, you want to inspect the slot to help you determine what way the CPU needs to be inserted. Most (if not all) CPU's and slots have notches that can help you locate how it needs to be placed correctly.

The slot should have a lever (plastic or metal) that you MUST raise to insert the CPU. After you have raised it, correctly align the notches and slowly insert the CPU. You should not receive ANY resistance. The CPU should be able to "glide" directly into the slot. If you are using any force at all, you need to stop.

Once the CPU is safely in the slot, lightly press down on the lever to secure the CPU into the slot.

Installing the Heatsink

If you purchased a stock CPU, it should have come with a compatible heatsink. Most heatsinks come with something called thermal tape. This tape is used to keep the heatsink from being placed directly on the CPU. The tape is usually located in the box with the heatsink and CPU or it is placed directly on the heatsink itself with a piece of clear tape covering it. If you do not see this tape, you should seriously consider purchasing it. You can also buy something called thermal compound. Thermal compound acts like the tape, it is just in a gel form. If you opt for the gel, use it sparingly. You will not need a lot, just a small drop.

Once you have the tape securely on the bottom of the heatsink, you will need to position the heatsink over the CPU. Gently place it over the CPU so that it can be latched to the CPU slot.

NOTE: This next part will require patience and a firm but gentle touch. This is by far the hardest and nerve-racking experience to building a computer.

Once the latches are aligned, you will need to apply direct and firm pressure to latch it into place. Most latches can be presses down with a flathead screwdriver. You will need to be extremely careful to prevent the heatsink from sliding around on top of the CPU. You only want to use as much pressure as it takes to latch it into place. Remember this is not an engine block, it is a delicate piece of silicon, metal and plastic.

Once you latched the heatsink to the slot frame, you need to connect the heatsink/fan to its power source. Consult your motherboard manual, you are looking for something like "CPU fan". Once located connect the heatsink/fan wire to the motherboard.

Installing the Motherboard

Once the CPU. heatsink and memory have been installed, it makes installing the motherboard into the case a little easier. Imagine installing the heatsink in a cramped case.

The next step is to locate the holes in the motherboard to place the screws. Once you have located these holes, make sure the case has the "pegs" in place so the motherboard can rest on top of them. The motherboard should not be installed so it touches the case directly. Using the pegs help raise the motherboard up off the back of the case.

Install the pegs (if not installed in case already) so they match the holes in the motherboard. Gently lower the motherboard so it rests firmly on the pegs. Once you have the motherboard firmly in place, make sure that the back ports are aligned correctly. You may have to bend and/or remove some metal tabs to align it properly. If this is not done, you may find it difficult to connect your keyboard, mouse or printer to your computer.

Once you have completed this, you can screw in the motherboard to the case. Do not fasten the screws to tightly, you don't want to warp the motherboard, just keep it firmly in place.

There are a few wires that are attached to the motherboard that are used for the power and reset buttons on the front of the case. Each motherboard is different so you will need to consult your manual for guidance to correctly attach them.

Installing Hard Drive(s)

More than likely your hard drive compartments are located at the front of the case near the bottom. Simply slide the hard drive into the bay and match up the screws and securely fasten it.

Some newer cases have plastic casings which makes it easier to install your devices. Just remove the plastic casing from the bay, insert the hard drive and slide it back into the bay. It should lock into place.

If you can only screw the hard drive in, make sure you securely fasten the drive to the bay. If you don't once the drive is turned on, it may make a loud rattling noise.

If you have multiple EIDE/ATA drives, you will need to select the proper jumper. There is a small set of pins in the back of the drive (usually between the power and data connectors) that lets you set the "position" the drive takes. It can either be Master, Slave or Cable Select. Personally I would set the main hard drive as Master and any backup or smaller hard drive as Slave.

Installing CD/DVD Drives

Installing CD/DVD drives works the same way as hard drives, except you need to remove the outside coverings and slide them in from the front of the system. Then screw in the drives to the case frame or click the drives into the plastic casings.

If you have multiple EIDE/ATA CD/DVD drives you will need to follow the jumper settings above.

Connecting The Wires

Since there are so many connectors within a system, I can't possibly cover all of them. Although, each device will need to be connected to the power supply as well as the motherboard. Follow the manual

Once you have all the drives securely fastened to the case, it is time to connect the data and power wires. After years of building computers, one thing I noticed rather early was to start at one end of the case and work my way in the other direction. Meaning if you start at the back of the system, slowly connect devices as they come. Do not just randomly plug things in, work in a more methodical way. If you start at the bottom near the hard drive, slowly work yourself up to the top of the case.

Doing it this way, helps keep wires neater and increases air flow in the case, which makes your system run cooler.

Before You Close The Case

Prior to closing the case, you should make sure the system can boot. You do not want to close the case just to reopen it because you got a blank screen. Personally, I wait until I have installed the operating system before I close everything up. Who knows, The system may boot but can't locate a DVD drive. I guess I am lazy that way!

Comments

Antistatic Wrist Strap

September 21, 2009 by Stu (not verified), 24 weeks 2 days ago
Comment id: 56

Having worked for several years as an electronics assembler, I have to point out that wrist straps by themselves can give one a false sense of security. Since we worked with components that could be destroyed by the static charge of someone simply walking past them, we had to test our antistatic wrist straps daily, and as often as not they failed the test unless we used an electrolytic hand lotion on the area of skin they contacted. Water, saliva, and regular hand lotion did NOT make the wrist straps work any better, we *had* to use the "Smurf Juice", (since the special lotion was blue in color).

I have built a good number of computers at home, and I have never had a static related failure on any of them. These are the steps I take to avoid static damage:

1) If possible, work on a bare concrete floor. Concrete is mildly conductive, and goes straight to ground (earth). It works even better if you work barefoot, or at least wearing cotton socks. Shoes will insulate you from ground, allowing your body the potential to generate a static charge, especially if your clothing is made of synthetic fibers.

2) Use a length of wire to connect the computer case to a ground point. This could be a metal water pipe or conduit, or a metallic base of a lamp, or any other device plugged into the wall outlet. Technically, you could simply install the power supply into the case first, and plug it into the wall outlet (leaving the power switch turned "OFF"), as you assemble the computer. Some people would call this a potential shock hazard, but in reality it's no more dangerous than touching the metal case of a fully assembled and functioning computer as long as the power supply remains sealed shut and factory intact.

2) Don't unpack the components from their protective packaging until you are ready to install them. When you do, make sure you are touching the metal part of the computer case as you unpackage and install the components. This isn't hard to do since we are usually holding part of the case to support it during assembly anyway. I just make sure that I'm leaning my wrist or elbow on the case while I pull the parts out of their antistatic wrappers.

If you follow these guidelines during assembly, then static damage will be the least of your worries.

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